Tuesday, 28 April 2015

Modernised Nordic Cuisine - Geranium



Next up it's Geranium. One of World Top50 restaurant serving modern Nordic cuisine. Every dish presented to diner is like a piece of art on the table (made my life much easier when taking photos HAHA). Here they keep portion small but focus very strong on individual flavours, at the same time very delicious. This is The Universe Tasting Menu + Juice pairing. 

Crispy Grains from Kornly, Danish Cheese
Very strong cheese taste, flaky sea salt is an addition to the saltiness. It's thin and the grainy bits give crunch. 

Crispy Carrot and Sea buckthorn ball
Eat in one bite! The sea buckthorn purée burst as the thin case made from carrot breaks. Sour and sweet. 
Milk, Fermented juice from Carrot, Crab, Sea buckthorn oil
It's more than it looks! There's sweet crab meat hidden in the bottom. The milk pudding is not as strong rather crab flavours comes through quite well. Different flavours (sweet, briny) of the crab are well balanced, as if eating a crab in different forms. 

Pear, Pear Vinegar, Lemon Verbena
Verbena leaves in between fresh pear and sour pear. The natural sweet acid occur naturally from fruit.

Jerusalem artichoke leaf, Rye Vinegar, Walnut mayonaise 
Mayonnaise has a sharper taste at first, then the Jerusalem artichoke taste comes after as I chewed it for a while, so be patient with it! 
Dried Danish apple, Apple juice, Dried flowers 
All texture meets harmoniously together, the sweet tartness from the Danish apple is unique. 

Smoked Sheep milk Butter, Burnt Potato
The aroma comes through instantly as the server opens glass in front of me. Holy moly... The smokiness rush through my entire body even my mind is attacked for a second. Sheep milk butter is much lighter than cows butter which also highlight the smokiness even more.
The potato is burnt the outside yet floury interior still remains. Definitely one of highlight of the meal.

Cep Mushroom foam, Pickled quail egg
Personally the sourness came a little odd but the quail egg yolk and cep soup work nicely together. The flavours is very distinct, strong and concentrated shot.

"Seaweed & Razor Clam" Impression of the Ocean
Strong umami from the seaweed (algae). The razor clam is cubes and mixed with egg emulsion (sth like Mayo, sabayon..etc). The dipping Mayo is delicious, however personally the razor clam kind of loses it's original pleasant ocean brininess. Other condiments are a little overpower.

Jellied Ham, Tomato water, Aromatic Herbs, Sorrel flowers
North denmark ham jelly, tomatoes consumme , ham oil. Unfortunately too salty to my preference. When the saltiness meets with tomato consume, the amount of sourness make it not very pleasant to drink. The herbs is fresh but just doesn't harmonise with the dish. 

"Dillstone" - Scallop, Horseradish, Granita from pickled cucumber
One of their signature "Dillstone". I'm impressed how they managed to keep the scallop so fresh while it had been shaped so perfectly. The spiciness from horseradish mayonnaise cuts through the briny scallop also rounded up with all refreshing and bright herbiness from dill and refreshing from cucumber granita. 

Sea buckthorn juice is thick, and taste quite sour but they make it very pleasant to drink very soothing. 


Salted Hake, Buttermilk, Caviar, Herb Stems
Brown butter is sizzling over the herb stems and smell incredibly fragrant. The frozen hawk with burnt parsley leaves makes it taste like it has been smoked which in an other words intensify the hawk sashimi.

Bread with Emmer and Spelt
Texture like cannelloni, Chewy centre with a nice dry crust. Crunch from steel cut oats, the toppings, gives bites and oaty sweetness and also reminds the sweet healthy old fashioned grains like spelt and emmer wheat.


Biodynamic Onions with Chamomile, Melted Hay Cheese
The cheese is very strong and intense with hay flavour, a big contrast to the light chamomile and sour pickled onions. 

First three juice tends to be on the sour side celery cucumber seaweed juice. 
Grilled Oyster from Limfjorden, Fermented Cabbage, Thyme
The oyster is huge! From Limfjorden, an island in Denmark. Oyster is nicely cooked, tarragon and thyme foam gives smokiness to the dish, while fermented cabbage buts through these strong flavours. 
Looks sophisticated as well as well delivered flavour. 

Brill, Smoked Lard, Mustard Seeds, Pickled Green berries
The purple thyme stands out a lot, round up and bring autumn spirit to the dish. Smoked lard gives intense smokiness as well as meltingly good texture. first season cucumber is close to raw, fresh and crunchy, a sign welcoming spring!

Lamb in Juniper Aroma, Celeriac, Pickled Pine
It impressed me with amazing tenderness while pink flesh still remains. Celeriac is soft and sweet, as if Japanese turnip. The juniper berries gives a sharp clean cut through the lamb. Tapioca infused rhubarb lighten up the warming spices, welcoming the season of spring. Crunches on top remains me how delicious it was the hawk. Soft and crunchy, definitely a winner on texture. 

Pear, Dried Black Berries, Lemon Herbs, Frozen Yoghurt 
The pear is sweet whereas balanced out by the sour blackberries, the crisp. The pear balls are sous vide with blackberries juice. The sheep milk yoghurt powder melt in mouth like whipped cream.

Bee Wax, Pollen, Cloudberries
Cloudberries also known as 'the gold of forest', it is extremely rare and I am lucky enough to have it in this tiny little pot! Sour cloudberries and bittersweet bee wax marries together, with a sweet aftertaste.

"The Taste of Naked Tree", Dark Beer, Prunes, Cream with Beech Wood
The server told me it's just a hint of beer taste but wow it's pretty strong.. But I absolutely loving it!! With the sharpness from the frozen beer granite disc the cream become less heavy.



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