Tuesday, 28 April 2015

Modernised Nordic Cuisine - Geranium



Next up it's Geranium. One of World Top50 restaurant serving modern Nordic cuisine. Every dish presented to diner is like a piece of art on the table (made my life much easier when taking photos HAHA). Here they keep portion small but focus very strong on individual flavours, at the same time very delicious. This is The Universe Tasting Menu + Juice pairing. 

Crispy Grains from Kornly, Danish Cheese
Very strong cheese taste, flaky sea salt is an addition to the saltiness. It's thin and the grainy bits give crunch. 

Crispy Carrot and Sea buckthorn ball
Eat in one bite! The sea buckthorn purée burst as the thin case made from carrot breaks. Sour and sweet. 
Milk, Fermented juice from Carrot, Crab, Sea buckthorn oil
It's more than it looks! There's sweet crab meat hidden in the bottom. The milk pudding is not as strong rather crab flavours comes through quite well. Different flavours (sweet, briny) of the crab are well balanced, as if eating a crab in different forms. 

Pear, Pear Vinegar, Lemon Verbena
Verbena leaves in between fresh pear and sour pear. The natural sweet acid occur naturally from fruit.

Jerusalem artichoke leaf, Rye Vinegar, Walnut mayonaise 
Mayonnaise has a sharper taste at first, then the Jerusalem artichoke taste comes after as I chewed it for a while, so be patient with it! 
Dried Danish apple, Apple juice, Dried flowers 
All texture meets harmoniously together, the sweet tartness from the Danish apple is unique. 

Smoked Sheep milk Butter, Burnt Potato
The aroma comes through instantly as the server opens glass in front of me. Holy moly... The smokiness rush through my entire body even my mind is attacked for a second. Sheep milk butter is much lighter than cows butter which also highlight the smokiness even more.
The potato is burnt the outside yet floury interior still remains. Definitely one of highlight of the meal.

Cep Mushroom foam, Pickled quail egg
Personally the sourness came a little odd but the quail egg yolk and cep soup work nicely together. The flavours is very distinct, strong and concentrated shot.

"Seaweed & Razor Clam" Impression of the Ocean
Strong umami from the seaweed (algae). The razor clam is cubes and mixed with egg emulsion (sth like Mayo, sabayon..etc). The dipping Mayo is delicious, however personally the razor clam kind of loses it's original pleasant ocean brininess. Other condiments are a little overpower.

Jellied Ham, Tomato water, Aromatic Herbs, Sorrel flowers
North denmark ham jelly, tomatoes consumme , ham oil. Unfortunately too salty to my preference. When the saltiness meets with tomato consume, the amount of sourness make it not very pleasant to drink. The herbs is fresh but just doesn't harmonise with the dish. 

"Dillstone" - Scallop, Horseradish, Granita from pickled cucumber
One of their signature "Dillstone". I'm impressed how they managed to keep the scallop so fresh while it had been shaped so perfectly. The spiciness from horseradish mayonnaise cuts through the briny scallop also rounded up with all refreshing and bright herbiness from dill and refreshing from cucumber granita. 

Sea buckthorn juice is thick, and taste quite sour but they make it very pleasant to drink very soothing. 


Salted Hake, Buttermilk, Caviar, Herb Stems
Brown butter is sizzling over the herb stems and smell incredibly fragrant. The frozen hawk with burnt parsley leaves makes it taste like it has been smoked which in an other words intensify the hawk sashimi.

Bread with Emmer and Spelt
Texture like cannelloni, Chewy centre with a nice dry crust. Crunch from steel cut oats, the toppings, gives bites and oaty sweetness and also reminds the sweet healthy old fashioned grains like spelt and emmer wheat.


Biodynamic Onions with Chamomile, Melted Hay Cheese
The cheese is very strong and intense with hay flavour, a big contrast to the light chamomile and sour pickled onions. 

First three juice tends to be on the sour side celery cucumber seaweed juice. 
Grilled Oyster from Limfjorden, Fermented Cabbage, Thyme
The oyster is huge! From Limfjorden, an island in Denmark. Oyster is nicely cooked, tarragon and thyme foam gives smokiness to the dish, while fermented cabbage buts through these strong flavours. 
Looks sophisticated as well as well delivered flavour. 

Brill, Smoked Lard, Mustard Seeds, Pickled Green berries
The purple thyme stands out a lot, round up and bring autumn spirit to the dish. Smoked lard gives intense smokiness as well as meltingly good texture. first season cucumber is close to raw, fresh and crunchy, a sign welcoming spring!

Lamb in Juniper Aroma, Celeriac, Pickled Pine
It impressed me with amazing tenderness while pink flesh still remains. Celeriac is soft and sweet, as if Japanese turnip. The juniper berries gives a sharp clean cut through the lamb. Tapioca infused rhubarb lighten up the warming spices, welcoming the season of spring. Crunches on top remains me how delicious it was the hawk. Soft and crunchy, definitely a winner on texture. 

Pear, Dried Black Berries, Lemon Herbs, Frozen Yoghurt 
The pear is sweet whereas balanced out by the sour blackberries, the crisp. The pear balls are sous vide with blackberries juice. The sheep milk yoghurt powder melt in mouth like whipped cream.

Bee Wax, Pollen, Cloudberries
Cloudberries also known as 'the gold of forest', it is extremely rare and I am lucky enough to have it in this tiny little pot! Sour cloudberries and bittersweet bee wax marries together, with a sweet aftertaste.

"The Taste of Naked Tree", Dark Beer, Prunes, Cream with Beech Wood
The server told me it's just a hint of beer taste but wow it's pretty strong.. But I absolutely loving it!! With the sharpness from the frozen beer granite disc the cream become less heavy.



Tuesday, 14 April 2015

Exotic Meal at AMASS



One of the meal that I can never forget. At AMASS I experience one of the best dining experience in this Scandinavia tour. You might start to imagine how luxury or how "fine" the food and the interior of the restaurant can get. If you thinking that, you're wrong! AMASS is a very casual place outside of the city, tableware a are simple, you can see where most of the dishes are on the pass. In summer diners would spend time outdoor, on the grass to chit chat and have a drink. 
So time to get into the food, which will give you more understanding about the restaurant, as well as Matthew Orlando's cooking.

Salted Cod marinated in 3 Fonteinen Oude Geuze Beer(sour beer), Burnt Lemon, Soured Cream, Crisp Potato.
By marinating in sour beer substitute vinegar to develop the sourness. The beer is not that strong as I expected, instead of alcoholic taste it gives acidic taste. The potato chip is delicious, not the very thin and crisp kind of chips, but crunchy like the texture of a harden caramel. 

Fermented Potatoes Bread
The bread course is not ordinary good, it's crazily, addictively delicious to the MAX! Every person who have been to AMASS agrees with me. The fermented potatoes, gives a sour fermented aroma and taste, it's rustic and is baked in their specialized wood oven outside. 
Instead of butter they use seasonal ramson and chard to make the garlicky condiment, it pairs very well with the fermented potatoes bread. Not the fluffier but the fermented taste work as well as sourdough made from wheat flour. Now I understand why the server told me feel free to ask for more bread because I'm pretty sure everyone would be able to eat more then one of it (or maybe 2..3....5..), for instant I wanted to ask se for take away. (hahahaha) 


Truffle Crisp, Monkfish liver Paste, Black Garlic, Black lime Powder

Black lime, picked, boiled, in dehydrated for 8weeks! Tiny dust of powder is powerful enough, acidity and burnt at the same time..why didn't I thought of the concept of "slow cooking" in the dehydrator? (8weeks...that's a lot of electricity consumed hahaha) 
Truffle mushroom crisp, the truffle come through strongly, don't really have to say more about truffle:) Fermented black garlic balance the truffle taste, concentrated sweetness from the fermentation. The flower gives citrus lightness to the dish. 

Roasted Squid, Pork Fat, Sorrel, Winter cress

The pork fat melts in mouth. In the beginning I have no idea where they included the pork fat into the dish. But after my first bites, wow they literally slice the pork fat and squid the same style so as you dig in it kinds of guides you and tell you that the squid is just as soft and meltingly tender as the melting fat. The bitterness from the cress cuts through the fattiness, as well as the onion, which is sousvide with seaweed powder. Seaweed is a harmonious combination with the squid as if the taste of sea water.

Winter pickles, Chicken skins, Preserved Garlic

Seven layers of chicken skins has been cooked, pressed, packed, the roasted till crisp. The texture is like a lightly toast brioche, soft the inside, crispy in the outside. 
Six different Pickles form last summer gives a taste of Scandinavia's winter. The pickles are very nordic, I'm not sure what exactly are there however I spot elderberries, and was able to taste spices like juniper berries which I assume have been used in pickling.

Fermented Grains, Broth of Monkfish Head, Egg Yolk, Horseradish oil

Fermentation plays a big role in Nordic cuisine. the grains are fermented like Jpanese koji, thus resulting sourness with a subtle hint of sweetness. Grains includes barley, spelt, and rye. The egg yolk is nicely cooked, it's chewy contrasting the texture with the fermented grains. Horseradidsh oil gives the dish a final kick, added spiciness which I think is great with the sour grains.

Monkfish Loin, Citrus, 

Monkfish loin is, no doubt, cooked perfectly. They added tiny pieces from fresh citrons (guessing is lemon) and lemon balm on the fish. They gives citrus taste which is tart but not sour. The herbed "butter" is made from buttermilk, not too creamy at the same time acts as another acidic element, very nice with therapy monkfish. The plum compote adds a little crunch and another refreshment of the dish. All condiments sounds quite acidic but I ensure you this dish is well balanced. 

Forest Chicken cooked with marzipan, Fermented Elderflower, Soft Almonds, Celery

Chef Orlando came and explain the dish by himself. He told me they spent more than a year to pick the best chicken for this dish. Forest chicken is the winner at last, they eat bugs (what chickens normally eat in the nature), thus they come in much stronger, bigger, and with less fats as they're wild animals that run around in the forest. The chefs goes into the wood and catch these babies by themselves, to ensure it comes all natural.
Taste: It has very intense and unique chicken taste. It has been cooked with marzipan to give nuttiness to enhance flavour. The pickled elderflower has a sweet floral taste which gives lightness to the dish. Slices of dried celeriac has been rehydrated and it's still juicy and soft very nice to go with them chicken; raw celery is the clean element of the dish.
Lastly, the cooked almond is there to harmonise the marzipan, it remains a little crunch with amazing nutty sweetness. Everything has transformed a piece of gold from the forest to a gastronomic masterpiece! 

Olive oil bread, herb Ice cream, Bronze Fennel Top, Olive Oil

One of favourite (too much favourite in this meal..) is the pre-dessert course! Since I had olive oil dessert at Mansfred & Vin, I kind of going the reverse way and having savoury dessert. OH MY! Crazily crazily crazily  delicious!!!! The olive oil bread (more like shortcake to me) is moist but crumbly when bite into. The (a Swedish bittersweet herbs) ice cream goes so well with olio. It taste a little like match(just to make it easier for you guys to imagine the taste). The two tiny broze fennel top don't seem important but for some reason it makes such a difference, lighten up the strong olive taste.
It's very hard to explain the flavours, it was simply like miracle happening in my mouth.

Chocolate Ice cream, Bacon Caramel, Beer Mousse

The last dessert comes with a little little disappointment. Overall it's a well delivered dessert but compared to all those surprise and "wow" factors from previous dishes this isn't as exciting. Flavour wise the bacon caramel and beer mousse are both wire weak. I would say it's a good milk chocolate ice cream. 

Matthew Orlando is one of the kindest and most passionate chef, I have loads to learn from him.


Thursday, 9 April 2015

Copenhagen Guide with A Break Through!

Copenhagen Guide + A Break Through!

On 27th March 2015 I've began my Scandinavia Journey, as if another new beginning in life. The moment I stepped out of the aircraft, I was filled up with cold fresh air, not very used to the chilly weather but the amount of joyfulness in me heats me up like flame. I couldn't keep myself calm even though I know I have to catch up with my airbnb host (since I was running  a little late..). Nevertheless I finally made it to the apartment with one of the heaviest luggage I've ever carried in my life.
The apartment is small, simple, and a little old to be honest. Well, in fact, that's perfect for my stay in Copenhagen, as I would be able to fully experience. 
If you have seen my instagram, you probably know that I tried A LOT of different restaurants, I want to share my dining experiences with people through this blog but I never get to sit down and actually spend time to write a proper blog post. So, here we go, I finally break my "tradition" and started with this little Copenhagen travel guide (or sum up). This post is supposed to be short and concise about places I have been. I will do a brief description for each of them. 

Here comes the lists for 8 days of craziness! 

Restaurant

Geranium - Top 50 Restaurant in the world. A very modern take on Nordic cuisine, and the presentation is the most artistic masterpiece on the dining table. Food no need to say, delicious. 

Relæ - Very unusual flavours combinations, a more casual style compare to other fine dinning. Nice and fun chefs, especially when I was sitting at the bar.

Manfreds & Vin - Hipster place with high quality food and service, also at a very reasonable price. One that to mention about is their famous-all-around-the-world Beef Tartare!! It's ridiculously delicious! (stay turned with my review)

Amass - Boom! I see an up raising gastronomic star! Food really reflects Chef Matthew Orlando own interpretation of food. very distinct from others, overall a mind blowing meal.

Restaurant Bror - A head to tail cooking style. Homey and cozy atmosphere in the restaurant, some particular dishes are very well delivered. Definitely worth a try.

Tovolihellen - Delicious homemade traditional Smørrebrød (open-faced sandwich) and where locals hang out for casual lunch meal. 

Pnoy - A little disappointed to be honest but food is quite high up on the list, not extraordinary.  

Aamanns Smørrebrøds Deli - Fancy take on Danish Smørrebrød. Herring Smørrebrøds is amazing. 


Café & Coffee

Atelier September - My favourite breakfast/ brunch spot in town. A French inspired small café along Gothersgade, in the city centre, with clean, simple interior. Avocado on Rye and their skyr (with zucchini, matcha, basil, and granola) are must-have! If you're into match like me, they have the best in Europe! 

Café Det Vide Hus - Quite café opens 7 days a week, overall quite high in quality. Their sea buckthon and carrot juice is a classic taste of Nordic. Although it's not cold pressed, they do the best juices.

Cafe Lillebror - Café run by Restaurant Bror's owners. Best bakery in town, sourdough is crazily addictive, doughnuts and monkey bread are signature sweet pastries! Lunch options consist three to four kinds of sandwiches (/ burger!) Perfect lunch spot with simple food but prepared with a lot of care and passion from the chefs.

The Coffee Collective - My favourite pour over coffee is their house roasted Kieni from Kenya. 

Mirabelle - Croissant wins it all!! Totally worth it to swag by just to get a (huge) croissant. The thin flaky crust and soft, thousands layers hidden inside... proves that Danish doesn't only do sourdough or rye bread.

42 Raw - Raw Vegan café just next to the shopping street. Raw cakes, desserts and smoothies are amazing.

Grød - Porridges heaven. Both sweet and savoury, I prefer the sweets which is more special, for example 3 grains porridge cooked in carrot juice(!).

Kent Kaffe - Perfect for a coffee break. They do amazing siphon and iced coffee.



Sweet Craves

Restaurant Tårnet - Known to have the best cake in Denmark. Have an afternoon tea with good view, traditional is especially outstanding. 

Social Foodies - As you all know, ice cream (be specific! not American style one!) is my weakness. Ice cream/ gelato here is my favourite. (Can't wait to share with you guys!) Also, best chill chocolate I have ever tasted in my life.

Summerbird - one of best chocolate store in Copenhagen. Has the best chocolate coated nuts, liquorice is a must try!


Rajissimo - A popular ice cream and waffle shop, mostly located in tourist spots.


*I will gradually post reviews and all the pictures on the blog as soon as possible, enjoy!